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All the things you mention are important to playability - and can be adjusted. The factors that can't are the scale length (obvious), and the neck profile and fingerboard radius. Those two things are very subjective - they either get liked by the player, or not. Often because they are similar to a favourite instrument. String spacing and indeed strings come ...


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Since we are living in the age of affordable high-precision CNC, it is reasonably easy to produce a highly playable guitar. What precision milling is not going to buy you is high quality wood and working carefully with the grain and sensitivities of the material. In five years, your Strat is likely to be just as playable as it is now, given reasonable ...


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Before you start sanding your saddle down, it is important to be sure you have the truss rod adjusted optimally for your playing style. Excess relief in the truss rod will make the action higher, particularly from about the 4th fret to the fret closest to the sound hole. You might be able to attain a lower action by adjusting the truss rod to flatten out ...


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10-15 mm seems well too high! With sandpaper, it'll take days/weeks! If it IS that much, then put some paper round it, trap it in a vice, and file it down, with strokes along its long edge, underneath. I hope you meant 1.0-1.5 mm!. Even so, the same approach will work, but bear in mind that once you go too far, the solution is to start again with another ...


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Normally the bottom of the saddle would be sanded down to lower it. The challenge is sanding it down evenly and squarely. The technique I've seen for this is to fix or hold down the sandpaper on a flat surface and run the bottom of the saddle back and forth over it. You might consider buying an extra saddle or two and working on a spare so you can keep your ...



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