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Those are x-y MIDI controllers more commonly referred to as Kaoss Pads. If you are familiar with a modulation wheel on a MIDI keyboard, you know you can assign that wheel to control any number of aspects of the instrument, from pitch bend, to volume, to vibrato, an LFO, or perhaps a filter. The x-y pad gives you two of those on a plane, with which you can ...

I have read much about the Telecaster, but I still don't know what Leo Fender was thinking. I know that Seth Lover was thinking the same thing, as PAF humbuckers had covers too. It was only into the 70s when you started seeing pickups with their covers removed. Even Strat pickups are covered, albeit with plastic. In part, the nickel cover was to make the ...

Generally, no. While you can look out for things like size (full size is better than a small one) and construction as @luserdroog says, there are so many variables that you need to play an instrument to see how it works for you. Your playing style may mean a particular type of instrument works for you while it might not for me (for example if you use a ...

It is advised that any amp (or guitar for that matter) be tested and played by you before a purchase. This rules out mail order amps. If you can't play it or test it out, do not buy. Here's an example of buying a vintage amp. Let's say the power at your location is 120 VAC at 60 Hz and you buy an amp that was built in 1959. Just for grins, it happens to be ...

It certainly can make a difference but you do find more and more amplifiers which can cope with either (usually with a switch to select 110 or 220 V) so I'm guessing the manufacturers aren't as worried. You do need to make sure your amp can cope from a damage perspective though. If it is designed for 110V it may be destroyed by 220V!

The simple answer is that you can't. The reason these are so cheap and simple is that there aren't a lot of configurable parts and sadly you are stuck with odd harmonics if you overdrive the LM 3886. As JimR said, you'll need to use a valve overdrive in your signal path if you do want that sound.

The USB 2.0 standard does not allow for "low speed" or "full speed" devices to be polled more than 1,000 times/second; "high speed" devices may be polled up to 8,000 times/second, but require fancier electronics. A MIDI interface takes 320 microseconds (0.32 milliseconds) to send each byte of data; if multiple notes are pressed simultaneously, two bytes ...

In simplest terms, guitars and basses have specific frequency ranges defined by the typical lowest and highest notes on the fretboards. Amps AND speakers tend to be designed and/or chosen for their performance in these frequency ranges. So yes, "guitar [combo] amps filter the lower registry" in that they are not generally intended to be as responsive in ...

You could add a switch which adds a higher capacitance in parallel with C3. Label its off position "low cut". The low value of C3 is what is rolling off bass response. Elsewhere, note how 10X bigger 22 nF couplers are used. It is usual for guitar amps to roll off bass. Fairly aggressive bass roll off is needed, in particular, to achieve "chunky" distortion ...

older usb midi throughput would lag a little in SOME drivers due to usb sending "blocks" of data. Now adays, those problems are gone. In addition, some usb midi can cause audio interference (my Yamaha CP-33 suffers from this) so I have to use the midi port and a midi-usb interface to get around that. Very few usb midi setups suffer from this, though. ...

I guess when using equipment that only have MIDI-output, it comes very handy. MIDI is a well-established technology, with a low chance of failure (while with usb, I encountered otherwise...) Most modern devices with some sort of relevant output will have usb, but I think it's worth looking for the soundcard which does support MIDI i/o. (after all, it also ...

Check out MegaDrum. It claims to support up to 56 inputs. Not sure about pricing, but if you're handy with electronics, you can either build it yourself from scratch or buy one of the various kits they offer. For the sake of completeness, there's also the Roland TMC-6 and PAiA MIDI Drum Brain (also a DIY kit), with 6 and 8 inputs, respectively.

If you don't plan to modify your amplifier much, get the PCB. I have played both types and can't tell the difference. If you are building one, it will be a lot easier to change and modify the circuit to get "that sound" YOU want to hear with PTP wiring. I would reccomend using a turrret board or tag board to build the next one, if you are planning to ...

According to product specifications on the Aria company web site for the current MAC Presto model, Controls: Volume (CTS) x1 Tone (CTS) x1 5-Way PU selector SW x1 Series / Parallel / Tap Mini SW x2 I interpret this to mean that the two switches are: 1) a switch to change the pickups from wired-in-series to wired-in-parallel and 2) a coil-tap switch ...