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Buzzing happens when the action is too low at a particular point and the string touches the fret. This could be a specific fret or range of frets, or the whole length of the neck. You haven't said which fret the strings buzz at - this will give you a clue. The relief on the neck means that the strings should be furthest away from the fretboard at the 12th ...


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It's best to just wipe down your fret board with a damp clean cotton cloth. This is what Martin Guitars recommends for cleaning the fret boards of their acoustic guitars and it does work.


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Lemon oil. I've used it for decades. Use it undiluted, and sparingly. I find it to be an excellent cleaner for unfinished fretboards. I generally use a different cleaner for the finished wood surfaces.


5

Olive oil, or any other vegetable-based oil, is not recommended for oiling any wood as it may go bad, or rancid, after a while. Most commercially available fretboard oils use mineral oil as their main ingredient. Mineral oil is inexpensive, will not go bad, and is readily available at most pharmacies. So if you want a cheap and virtually identical ...


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Short answer: no. As a non-drying vegetable oil, it will eventually become rancid and not be fun. Same as safflower, peanut, sunflower, coconut, palm, etc. A better choice is a "drying oil" such as linseed oil, walnut oil, or a non-organic mineral oil or tung oil. Some folks have had good results using a citrus oil (orange, lemon) to clean, and then an ...


2

As you have already covered off lubrication, the only real issue is cleaning, and most of this comes down to keeping the interior dry, and wiping down the exterior. From Eagle Music: After each use, clean out the bore of your whistle and remove any moisture or dirt that has settled there. This can be done with what is called a flute/whistle mop which ...


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This is not a problem since the tail piece is in equilibrium. However, check your fine tuners regularly. If they are close to the violin top, turn them out most of the way, coarse tune using the pegs, then adjust the fine tuners.


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The angle the tailpiece takes depends on several factors- the shape of the bridge as you mentioned, the various tensions of the strings, the height and number of fine tuners, etc. The only way to change the angle without changing the bridge or the strings is with the fine tuners: most violins are designed for having just one, so the tailpiece rides lower ...



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