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3

Bow tension The most important thing you could do for your bow is to keep it loosened when it is not in use. This is something that every string player must do when putting their bow back in the case after playing. Storage Placement-wise, it is best to leave the bow in the case and occasionally take it out into the sun. If you have a long plastic bag ...


2

It is probably safe to assume that digital piano will be supported for the duration of the warranty. Then some Rolland and Yamaha models feature up to five year warranty (in comparison, Yamaha acoustic pianos have ten year warranty). I think this should be enough as for the wedding present; many wedding presents are household items that, when normally used, ...


5

The main reasons have already been mentioned, but to elaborate with a few practical tips: Truss rod tension The tension of the strings is counterbalancing tension of the truss rod, and when string tension is removed the truss rod is "free" to bend the neck. While it's extremely unlikely that a guitar that was correctly set up would break from removal of ...


0

You don't need to clean or rosin it; it might be good to protect it from dust and dramatic temperature and humidity changes. Definitely release the tension. I like the mothballs idea. They are pretty stinky but they keep away all sorts of bugs that might damage the bow. If you don't have a case handy that would work well, how about a cardboard mailing ...


2

I fully agree with Todd Wilcox, but I'll try to open the subject a bit more. The main argument why different sources tell you not to remove all strings at once is because the neck is adjusted to be straight by matching the tension between your strings and the truss rod. If you remove all strings at once your neck adjustment is off because you just removed ...


10

I think the main reason why people dissuade from taking off all strings is historical: on violin-family instruments as well as many archtop guitars, the bridge is not fixed on the instrument at all. It just stands freely on the top surface – normally held in place by the strings. But if you take the strings off, the bridge will fall, and you need to be ...


3

I had a bow that I stored in a cello case for months, with the tension off. When I went back to try to use it, I discovered that 2/3 of the horsehairs had been eaten through. My teacher then told me about "bow mites" (microscopic critters that are also called dust mites or carpet mites). She said that a bow needs to be stored with mothballs (napthaline or ...


12

While I've read several different sources recommending not removing all the strings at once, I've never read a good reason why not, and I've always restrung by removing all the strings first. The main reason is exactly as you say: to be able to clean and condition everything under the strings. I clean the fretboard and body area, oil the fretboard, and even ...


-1

As long as they are working you're good. I like the sound of old tubes. More mellow. I used to work at an AM radio station with tubes in the transmitter. The tubes were working very hard all the time. We would pull the tube out, every year. Remember, these work at max, 24hr/day, all year. Our Transmitter never went down because of tube failure. So figure it ...


0

I'd recommend something like this http://www.dawsons.co.uk/helin-cleaning-clo?gclid=CPaduaOP8cYCFUHJtAodzW8OSA , a flute polishing cloth They have a very small amount of a silver polish in them, and are fine material so they're really gentle on the metal even of a plated flute. They also leave zero residue. I had a buffet crampon for years and a yamaha ...


0

You could try Place "nut" with flat side on a hard surface. Hit the protruding "thread" with a sharp blow with a hammer. Try locking knob thread on "nut". Repeat if required. Alternately you could try lodging a small piece of plastic cable tie in "nut" ,simulating a Nyloc Nut,which should allow locking knob thread to grip. .


-1

baking soda, toothbrush, boiling water, do not get pads wet, aluminum foil pan, allow to soak or sit in its baking soda for at least 3 minutes, scrub off making sure that you do not get pads wet!- very hepful- it is acidic- baking soda is pure base will def help!


0

Can't think of anything else that will take its place. It's basically a semi-captive nut, that won't turn once the rod is inside the tube. A couple of ideas - use a bigger bolt, and tap out the meat to match it. Weld an appropriate nut to the outside, Both of which I've done in the past. As a semi-permanent you could put a pipe clip on the rod, to hold it ...


0

Regarding the truss rod, lots of people say not to mess with it. However, if you read up on what it does and have a minor adjustment to make to correct high action or fret buzz by low action then a making a couple of half turns the correct way followed by tuning and checking the action is simple enough. Though i must admit the first couple of times i needed ...


3

Before you start sanding your saddle down, it is important to be sure you have the truss rod adjusted optimally for your playing style. Excess relief in the truss rod will make the action higher, particularly from about the 4th fret to the fret closest to the sound hole. You might be able to attain a lower action by adjusting the truss rod to flatten out ...


0

10-15 mm seems well too high! With sandpaper, it'll take days/weeks! If it IS that much, then put some paper round it, trap it in a vice, and file it down, with strokes along its long edge, underneath. I hope you meant 1.0-1.5 mm!. Even so, the same approach will work, but bear in mind that once you go too far, the solution is to start again with another ...


3

Normally the bottom of the saddle would be sanded down to lower it. The challenge is sanding it down evenly and squarely. The technique I've seen for this is to fix or hold down the sandpaper on a flat surface and run the bottom of the saddle back and forth over it. You might consider buying an extra saddle or two and working on a spare so you can keep your ...



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