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Usually the ohms rating is the minimum the amp is safe with (as when you reduce resistance you increase current) so you are going the safer direction here by using an 8 ohm speaker. So for a 300W amplifier through a 4ohm speaker, using Power = Current squared X Resistance, you can supply up to around 8A. Using your 8ohm speaker the same equation gives your ...

Generally, for low level outputs, such as headphones, the current change due to impedance is unlikely to cause an issue. If you were wanting to connect many headphones it would probably degrade badly, but for just splitting to a second pair I wouldn't bother with an active circuit - just a normal headphone splitter should do just fine.

A well as turning the monitors down, I would suggest muting the monitor channels and turning down the volume on the monitor if they are independently powered. I know turning the levels right down should remove any voltage across the output, but some mixers seem to still have a DC offset which will cause a pop when the mixer is powered down. Muting on some ...

The pickups could be clipping the input gain stage of your amplifier. I doubt it has anything to do with the knobs, since active electronics can give out a very hot signal. Can you give us more information on what you're using for an amplifier? What active electronics are you using, specifically? I doubt you'll kill the speakers if it is input clipping ...

A keyboard like this creates a full spectrum of sound, and you don't generally expect your amplifier and speaker to add colour to the sound. The keyboard outputs stereo (or, optionally, mono) line level, unlike the much quieter "instrument level" that comes from a guitar. As a result, you're looking for most of the same properties as a you'd be looking for ...

My HI-FI system (a basic compact hi-fi system) is the only output I use with my POD X3 and I'm really satisfied with it. It's connected through left/right RCA cables. I don't see why it would not work with a POD 2.0. I see few possibilities : The cables / connectors you are using are cheap (but if you use them with you TV, I guess it's not that) The ...

If you're using active electronics, as silly as this sounds, verify that the battery isn't dead. I had a similar issue with my first bass, and it turned out to be the 5 dollar 9-volt battery-swap fix. After verifying that, as stated in the previous answer, see if you can pad the input somehow to make sure that you're not slamming the preamp.

Sounds like you are overloading the pre amp.Just as a guitarist would when turning up the pre-gain.To clean up that sound, he would turn the volume down at the guitar.At that point, the guitar volume pot. becomes a sort of distortion control. What's wrong with leaving the bass guitar volume down enough to achieve a clean sound, and turning up the amp? On ...

If your amp is specified for 300W @ 4 Ohm, it means that your amp was designed for a speaker with 4 Ohm. Assuming a constant load, this would be about 9A @ 35V (rounded). It's a common misunderstanding that audio amps were impedance matched to the speakers, i.e. that their internal resistance would be the same as the speaker's resistance. Instead, amps ...

The rule is to always turn your sound system on from "upstream" to "downstream", and to always turn off from "downstream" to "upstream". At its simplest and most basic, "amps are last on, first off". If you are following this rule, and still getting pops when you turn the amps on or off, one of two basic things is happening: You are turning everything on ...