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UPDATED TO CLARIFY A COUPLE OF POINTS:

  • The bridge has caused issues and failed in the same way before (note the slightly different saddle and tensioner screw on the A string).
  • The teacher/parent has asked for a replacement, not a repair (guessing because of the above)
  • The A string is apparently not staying in tune as the saddle is moving up and down, the intonation is terrible and will be fixed when I get my hands on it. All reasons why it can't be just left as is.
  • I have parts I could use to repair it from a standard Fender P/J bridge, and if I can't find a drop in replacement this will be my plan B.

Fist of all thanks for any help and in out on this. I help out at a local primary (elementary) school with at-cost repairs and servicing on any stringed instrument (guitars, basses, violins, cellos etc) belonging to a student.

I've been given a problem I'm having trouble with, I've been given photos of a Cort Bass guitar (something similar to a GB series?) with a busted bridge, they've asked me to source and cost a replacement bridge for it.

I don't have access to the bass itself, and have only been supplied the following two photos. Getting more photos or access to the bass isn't feasible inside the next two weeks, mostly because where I'm from (New Zealand) schools are all on vacation.

Can anyone help me identify and/or find an exact replacement for the bridge pictured below from Wilkinson/Gotoh or any other similar aftermarket parts manufacturer?

I've spent several hours going through the Gotoh site, searched all the available Wilkinson options I can find on Stewmac and a handful of other parts suppliers sites both locally here in NZ and internationally. Can't find anything. The key difference seems to be that the bridge from the bass in question only has four screws (one in each corner), whereas all the potential replacement options I can find have a row of 5 or more screws near the back end of it.

I really don't want to have to be drilling new holes and modifying the body to adapt a different bridge (this isn't my day job, and I don't get paid for it), a drop in replacement is very much preferred.

enter image description here enter image description here

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    Why not just get a replacement screw for the saddle with the nail through it? There doesn’t appear to be anything else wrong with it. Jul 13 at 4:19
  • @JohnBelzaguy - my thoughts also. A darned good clean wouldn't go amiss. In actual fact, once that saddle is in the right place, (it's about right now), the nail could stay there, the saddle probably won't move. Cheap (free?) easy repair!
    – Tim
    Jul 13 at 6:44
  • Teaching the kid that there's a hole in the middle of those posts & the benefits of a pair of snips & a peg winder wouldn't go amiss either ;)) It actually looks like he wound the strings round the posts then tucked a bit through the slot when he got bored… life's lessons to be learned.
    – Tetsujin
    Jul 13 at 17:05
  • Yea I have yet to actually get my hands on this bass for a service and all te issues you mention above will be sorted when I do ;)) The saddle on the A string (damaged one) apparently isn't staying still and is causing tuning issues, this also apparently isn't the first time this has happened (as evidenced by the different colour/type saddle and tensioner screw). I'm assuming this is why the teacher/parent has requested I try and a source a whole drop in replacement. Ultimately, I'm just trying to do what I was asked :) Jul 13 at 19:48
  • That 'screw' for the A string is a nail. The saddle hasn't been changed - to me it looks original. Sounds to me like teacher/parent is taking advantage of your good nature. Either ought to be capable of repairing, or getting it repaired for themselves. I'm sceptical about tuning changing, unless the player is particularly rough. Tuning issues are just as likely to be lack of turns/incorrect use of machine head string fixing.
    – Tim
    Jul 14 at 7:33
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A quick look on Ebay reveals several complete bridges with fixing holes that could well be the same as the spacings on the original - around £10.

However, as John says, all that's needed is a screw to replace the nail. Cost <£1.

However, again, the set up now isn't going to move - the saddle is held tightly due to string tension - so leave as is. There couldn't be a cheaper, easier solution than that. £0 !

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  • Could you link one please? Might be restricted because of my location but I cant find anything close. Jul 13 at 19:49
  • @ChrisButler - there are several emanating from China - which I think may be closer to NZ than UK, and they're happy to send all over the world - which includes NZ! In the circumstances, 'twere me, I'd be sourcing a bridge from Cort itself, and saving me a lot of grief. There's favours and there's favours...
    – Tim
    Jul 15 at 9:09
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This bridge looks similar to the one that was stock on the Harmony-branded P-Bass copy I got new when I was about 14 (ca. 1983). I lost one of the screws on that too, and replaced the whole bridge (ca. 1989) with a Leo Quan Badass II (yes, I drilled new holes). (FWIW The tuning machines also look identical.)

After writing my original answer, I found the old bridge from that bass in a parts container and it's not quite as close to yours as I thought, but it does have similar saddles and a non-standard (but different) hole pattern.

I opted for replacement back then because the bridge caused so many problems: It had a habit of drifting with vibrations (both in action and intonation), and the saddles tended to break strings. (I used to think it was my playing style, but I rarely broke them after the fix, or on other instruments.)

Aside from the hole pattern, there was one other issue replacing this bridge: The fretboard on the bass was set higher above the face of the instrument that on a normal P-Bass, and the Badass II was designed as a drop-in replacement for the stock P/J, so the replacement with the Badass II required a thin (maybe 3mm - 5mm) piece of wood stock underneath to raise it to match the height of the stock bridge. I think I screwed that into the original holes. It didn't look beautiful, but it worked. You may also encounter this issue trying to replace the bridge.

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  • thanks for the offer very generous. I have a bunch of similar old bridges that I can use for parts if need be, and of course could just put a new screw in it. The bridge has apparently caused issues before and teacher/parent have asked for a replacement, so that's what I'm trying to find. If I can't then I will pop a saddle and screw off one of the standard Fender P/J bridges I have lying around. Jul 13 at 19:52
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    @ChrisButler I just updated my answer based on your comment and the edits to the question.
    – Theodore
    Jul 13 at 20:39

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