Help me identify the bridge on this Cort GB series bass guitar

Question

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UPDATED TO CLARIFY A COUPLE OF POINTS:

• The bridge has caused issues and failed in the same way before (note the slightly different saddle and tensioner screw on the A string).
• The teacher/parent has asked for a replacement, not a repair (guessing because of the above)
• The A string is apparently not staying in tune as the saddle is moving up and down, the intonation is terrible and will be fixed when I get my hands on it. All reasons why it can't be just left as is.
• I have parts I could use to repair it from a standard Fender P/J bridge, and if I can't find a drop in replacement this will be my plan B.

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Fist of all thanks for any help and in out on this. I help out at a local primary (elementary) school with at-cost repairs and servicing on any stringed instrument (guitars, basses, violins, cellos etc) belonging to a student.

I've been given a problem I'm having trouble with, I've been given photos of a Cort Bass guitar (something similar to a GB series?) with a busted bridge, they've asked me to source and cost a replacement bridge for it.

I don't have access to the bass itself, and have only been supplied the following two photos. Getting more photos or access to the bass isn't feasible inside the next two weeks, mostly because where I'm from (New Zealand) schools are all on vacation.

Can anyone help me identify and/or find an exact replacement for the bridge pictured below from Wilkinson/Gotoh or any other similar aftermarket parts manufacturer?

I've spent several hours going through the Gotoh site, searched all the available Wilkinson options I can find on Stewmac and a handful of other parts suppliers sites both locally here in NZ and internationally. Can't find anything. The key difference seems to be that the bridge from the bass in question only has four screws (one in each corner), whereas all the potential replacement options I can find have a row of 5 or more screws near the back end of it.

I really don't want to have to be drilling new holes and modifying the body to adapt a different bridge (this isn't my day job, and I don't get paid for it), a drop in replacement is very much preferred.

Answer 1

A quick look on Ebay reveals several complete bridges with fixing holes that could well be the same as the spacings on the original - around £10.

However, as John says, all that's needed is a screw to replace the nail. Cost <£1.

However, again, the set up now isn't going to move - the saddle is held tightly due to string tension - so leave as is. There couldn't be a cheaper, easier solution than that. £0 !

Answer 2

This bridge looks similar to the one that was stock on the Harmony-branded P-Bass copy I got new when I was about 14 (ca. 1983). I lost one of the screws on that too, and replaced the whole bridge (ca. 1989) with a Leo Quan Badass II (yes, I drilled new holes). (FWIW The tuning machines also look identical.)

After writing my original answer, I found the old bridge from that bass in a parts container and it's not quite as close to yours as I thought, but it does have similar saddles and a non-standard (but different) hole pattern.

I opted for replacement back then because the bridge caused so many problems: It had a habit of drifting with vibrations (both in action and intonation), and the saddles tended to break strings. (I used to think it was my playing style, but I rarely broke them after the fix, or on other instruments.)

Aside from the hole pattern, there was one other issue replacing this bridge: The fretboard on the bass was set higher above the face of the instrument that on a normal P-Bass, and the Badass II was designed as a drop-in replacement for the stock P/J, so the replacement with the Badass II required a thin (maybe 3mm - 5mm) piece of wood stock underneath to raise it to match the height of the stock bridge. I think I screwed that into the original holes. It didn't look beautiful, but it worked. You may also encounter this issue trying to replace the bridge.