Guitar intonation issue - still sharp but screw as far as it'll go

Question

Recently I got a brand new Ibanez AM93 Lefty. It's an hollow body so I am using jazz guitar strings. I think I did a correct setup:

• Action is approx 1.8 mm in high E, and approx 1.9-2.0 at low E
• Neck adjusted, truss rod set up. Very minimal relief, pressing the 1st and 16th fret (neck/body junction) high E string has only a business card paper can slide and the string actually keeps the business card from falling down.
• Using flat wound jazz guitar strings, tried 3 different kind, all the same problem (string B is sharp).
  • D'Addario ECG24 Chromes Flat Wound, Jazz Light, 11-50 (B is 15)
  • D'Addario ECG25 Chromes Flat Wound, Light, 12-52 (B is 16)
  • Thomastik GB112 Medium Light George Benson Custom Flatwound Guitar Strings (B is 16)
  • Bridge is Ibanez ART1 adjustable fixed.

The action sounds a bit high (my Ibanez owner's manual recommends 1.5-1.8mm) but I can not lower the bridge more because it would be result fret buzz.

My main problem is that string 2nd (B) is still sharp but the bridge set up its longer long. If you examine the picture, high E and G also the longest, but in their case it is just in intonation.

Q1: What can cause that I must set my bridge for all strings so long and unfortunately for string B it is out of range?

Q2: I see that the adjustable piece is 180 degree reversed for the E, B, G strings than the D, A, E strings. As the profile of this piece (a wedge) is not symmetric, so rotating it for string B I got one more extra millimeter, which could be enough. The main questions are: Is it possible to rotate that piece or not? If it is possible, will it any drawback to sound of the B string?

(here is the pic, and note: it is a left handed guitar)

Thx in advance

Answer 1

In your photo, it appears that the saddles have a wedge-shaped top that is angled on one side only, while the other side is straight/flat. Three appear to be angled in one direction (reflecting the light) and three appear to be wedged in the opposite direction (not reflecting the light). If you reverse a saddle like this, you should be able to get some additional range of adjustment (equal to the thickness of the saddle).

UPDATE: I cannot explain why this is adjusted as shown. Typically, the effective string length gets shorter for the higher-pitched strings, and there is a "jump" in length differences between the wound and unwound strings. For example, see the following image: https://www.sweetwater.com/sweetcare/media/2018/06/MG_8714.jpg So that begs the question "How are you measuring the intonation?" It requires a darn good ear or usually a great tool like a stroboscope. You must also let the note "settle"; plucked strings will initially sound sharp, varying with the picking intensity. In addition to the tool(s), let's be certain that we agree on the objective: in my experience, I set the intonation by matching the the pitch of the first harmonic (at the twelfth fret) with the pitch of the fretted string (also at the twelfth fret). Good luck with your guitar!

Answer 2

I have had the same type of problem with all of my Les Pauls which have the same type of tune-o-matic bridge and stop tail piece. I recommend that you try the previous answer and turn the saddle in question around and see if that gives you the extra room you need. If that doesn't give that extra room purchase a bridge that is wider and that will give you more movement. I have had to do this on all my Les Pauls because the tune-O-Matic bridges are very narrow. You can find many bridges that are identical in appearance but are slightly wider.

Answer 3

You can try to change the top nut a little bit. Maybe carefully file out the slot/slit a little bit (so change it from the top). I did this with a an acoustic Suzuki Tree guitar and it made a small improvement.

Answer 4

Option 1

neck relief extreem to straid ?

Option 2

Fret job done with not 100% strait neck.

(If you know it happend)

Answer 5

Most guitars I see and have, even expensive ones , seem to be a kit of parts thrown together with no concern for intonation adjustment. These bridges are too far forward normally so the saddles on some of the strings are back as far as they can go and still the string is sharp when fretted at the 12th fret. I suspect the policy is. Throw the guitar together and take the money from the mugs.

Because who thinks about intonation when they buy a guitar, we expect it to be correct but it never is and most often cannot be corrected without finding a non standard bridge.

Guitars are not normally set up when bought new so the manufacturers never realise that the intonation can never be adjusted correctly. Also most players don't even know what intonation is. Fret strings normally on 12th fret and adjust with tuner to get same reading on the tuner for open string and 12 fret. The action height is irrelevant but will make a difference by pulling the string slightly sharper the higher the action. But action is dependant on style. Pickup pole pieces too near to strings will pull the intonation out. There is a bit of compromise so try other string fretting positions and minimise variation. A floating trem setup calls for saddles to be even further back. Strats have springs on the saddle screws preventing them from going all the way back. I would say most Strat bridges need to be at least 3/16 further back. Guitars are technical electromechanical devices but 99percent of guitarists and sales staff are not technically trained.